Missouri State Penitentiary Part 1 - A Must Do History Tour

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The Missouri State Penitentiary (MSP) has been on my travel bucket

list for years, however, probably not for the reason you would think.

This place is said to be one of the most haunted places in the US

due to its bloody history (MSP is known as the bloodiest 47 acres

in the United States) and you know my love for all things spooky

meant I had to go. So on my road trip out to the Northeast I went

not once, but twice, to this ominous stone house of horror

and both times I had an experience I won’t soon forget. This article

is all about my first visit to the penitentiary with one of my best

friends, Abigail who is not too keen on ghosties. However, she

was still interested in visiting the place so I settled for a 2 hour daytime

history tour (my first for a haunted location) and I actually

ended up really really enjoying it. 

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Before starting the tour everyone met in a lobby area near one of the original guard centers.

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We got to the tour a little early so we had some time to take

advantage of the props and photo area they had setup for visitors.

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From the lobby area our tour group headed outside and made

our way to housing unit #4. This housing unit was built in 1868 by

inmates and is the oldest existing building on the property. 

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You will notice in the next pictures how this housing unit no

longer has a roof. A tornado made its way through Jefferson

City back in May of 2019 and took the roof of this housing unit

with it. Our tour (which we went on in September 2020) was the

first tour group allowed to go back inside of the building following the tornado.

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This housing unit housed some infamous inmates including boxing

star Charles “Sonny” Liston (he actually learned how

to box while serving his time here!) 

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and John B. “Firebug” Johnson who was responsible for starting

a fire that created more than $500,000 in property damage and

the deaths of several fellow inmates. This act landed him in the

dungeons that sat below this unit for many years. He actually ended

up writing a book about his time down there titled “Buried Alive

for 18 years in the Missouri Penitentiary.” 

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We were allowed to walk around and explore the inside of the housing

unit at our own pace and we came across some very unique things

including this cell that had a Jack Daniels label painted onto the wall.

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We also saw this door which leads into an 1800s era cell. For

almost 100 years these cells would house 6 men per cell. They

were given a chamber pot to use as a toilet, a bucket of drinking

water, and a straw filled mattress to try to help them keep

warm since there was no heat in the building. 

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After about 15 minutes or so our group was led down into the

dungeons, the area below the main floor of the housing unit. 

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The first thing you come to down here is the showers.

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Next we continued through a doorway and into the area where

the dungeon cells were. This is what it looks

like down there without flash photography or flashlights….total

darkness (and remember our tour was in the middle of the day). It

was said that prisoners who were kept down here would literally

go insane, bashing their heads up against the walls, because of

how long they were kept in the dark alone. 

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After carefully navigating the dungeon area, we left housing unit 4 and moved on to housing unit 3.

Basketball court

This was the building where they housed some of their most dangerous criminals including the death row inmates and the man who is responsible for the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr., James Earl Ray.

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James Earl Ray cell 

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Abigail and I were taking our time looking around and ended

up falling behind in the tour group. One of the tour guides noticed

this and took us aside and let us see and hold the actual

original keys for the cell doors! 

And yes they were heavy. Lol 

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Our final stop on the tour was ironically the final stop for many

inmates, the gas chamber. 40 total inmates were put to death

here including one woman by the name of Bonnie B. Heady.

Bonnie and Carl Austin Hall kidnapped a young boy named Bobby

Greenlease requesting a $600,000 ransom which was the largest

ransom in the history of the nation. This ransom was paid, but Bonnie

and Carl had murdered and buried Bobby not long after his kidnapping. 

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Outside the gas chamber in the stone walkway rests this cross.

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Ready to watch an execution. Lol 

This is the room the inmates would stay before their execution. 

Execution chair

Guess we were guilty after all…… 

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Final Takeaways

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I personally think this place is a must stop for everyone, even if you

are not into ghosts. There is so much interesting history to learn!

I also highly recommend, if you do stop to take a daytime tour, try

and get a tour with Larry. He was our tour guide and is actually

a retired maintenance man from the prison! Throughout the tour he

was weaving in his own stories and experiences he had while working

there and it really brought a new aspect to the tour that I loved.

He has written a book detailing his time working there called...

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After our tour we both had a mad hankering for some ice cream

so we made our way down the street to the popular *Central Dairy

Ice Cream Parlor. We both walked out of there with a whole pint

of ice cream for under $4. It was magnificent. 

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*One thing to note with this place is that you do have to purchase at

least $5 worth of ice cream in order to pay with a card and unless

you get a sundae or something suuuuper fancy you won’t be able to

hit that limit so just make sure to bring cash just in case. 

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After getting our ice cream we went and checked into our

hotel, the Days Inn by Wyndham, which I had no complaints

about. For our one night stay it definitely worked. 

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Finally, after spending some time in our hotel room we were

starving and made our way out for some BBQ at Sweet Smoke BBQ

in downtown Jefferson City. I got the half rack of ribs topped with

the KC Sweet BBQ sauce which came out on a full size cookie sheet...yes

I said full size cookie sheet….and Abigail had the Carolina On My Mind Sandwich.

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This food was delicious. Not the best BBQ that I have ever

had, but definitely think it is worth a stop if you are craving BBQ while in Jefferson City. 

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Have you been to MSP? Would you rather do a history tour or a ghost tour?

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  Missouri State Penitentiary Part 2 - When the Ghosts Come Out to Play

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